JUTE

INTRODUCTION:-

Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, family Tiliaceae. It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute. The fibres are off-white to brown, and 1–4 meters (3–12 feet) long.

CULTIVATION:-

Jute needs a plain alluvial soil and standing water. The suitable climate for growing jute (warm and wet climate) is offered by the monsoon climate during the monsoon season. Temperatures ranging 20˚ C to 40˚ C and relative humidity of 70%–80% are favourable for successful cultivation. Jute requries 5–8 cm of rainfall weekly with extra needed during the sowing period.

The jute fibre comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant. The fibres are first extracted by retting. The retting process consists of bundling jute stems together and immersing them in low, running water.
There are two types of retting: stem and ribbon. After the retting process, stripping begins. Women and children usually do this job. In the stripping process, non-fibrous matter is scraped off, then the workers dig in and grab the fibres from within the jute stem.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION:-

Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major components wood fibre). It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially wood.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES:-

۞ EFECT OF ACIDS:-
Concentrated mineral acids dissolve jute and dilute mineral acids rot it quickly.

۞ EFFECT OF SALT WATER:- Jute is especially weak in salt water.

۞ EFFECT OF BLEACHES:-
It is difficult to bleach jute and color it.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:-
۞ TENAITY:-
It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging.

۞ THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY:- It has a low thermal conductivity and manufacture with no skin irritations.

۞ ELASTIC PLASTIC NATURE:- It is lack of strenght and therefore it is very difficult to bleach it, to give maximum whitness.

۞ AGROSCOPIC NATURE:- Jute has a moderate moisture regain.

USES:-
1. Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth.2. The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibres to make twine and rope.3. Jute can be used to create a number of fabrics such as Hessian cloth, sacking, scrim, carpet backing cloth (CBC), and canvas.4. It is a strong, durable, color and light-fast fibre.5. Jute fibres are also being used to make pulp and paper.

SILK AND COMPOSITION 3

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES:-

Silk is made up of the amino acids GLY-SER-GLY-ALA-GLY and forms Beta pleated sheets. Interchange H-bonds are formed while side chains are above and below the plane of the H-bond network.

◘ EFFECT OF ACIDS:-
Silk is resistant to Mineral acids. It is yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve in Sulphuric acid.

◘ EFFECT OF ALKALI:-
Silk is damaged by strong alkaline solutions.

◘ EFFECT OF BLEACHES:-
Silk may be damage in Chlorine bleaches. How ever bleaches of Hydrogen-peroxide and Sodium Per borate are safe to use.

SILK AND COMPOSITION 2

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION:-

Silk is made up of Amino acids and it contains 15 amino acids in Polypeptide chains. It has amino groups (NH2) and carboxyl group (COOH).The molecular chains are fully extended and packed closely together. There are some amorphous regions between some crystalline regions, giving silk its elasticity.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:-

◘ THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY:- Silk is a poor conductor of electricity and thus susceptible to static cling.

◘ HYGROSCOPIC NATURE:-
It has good absorbency with a moisture regain 11%.Its good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weathers.

◘ COMFORT:-
Silk is smooth and soft and thus not irritating to the skin.

◘ TENACITY:-
Silk is one of the strongest Natural fibers. Its tenacity ranging from 3.5—5.0 g/d dry and it may lose up to 20% of its strength when wet.

◘ ELASTIC PLASTIC NATURE:-
Its elasticity is moderate to poor if elongated even a small amount, it remains stretched.

SILK AND COMPOSITION

INTRODUCTION:-

Silk is a Natural fiber, as it is a Protein fiber therefore it is composed of Amino acids arranged in Polypeptide chains. It has a unique combination of properties not possessed by any other fiber.

 “Dry” tactile hand. Natural luster.  Good moisture absorption. High strength.

SILK GENERAL PROPERTIES:-

Elongation at breaking Standard Wet 20% 30%Absorbency 11% Thermal Property Does not MeltSelf Ironing Temperature 300 ْ F 149 ْ C Sunlight Resistance PoorSolubility 70% in Sulfuric acid at 30 ْCDensity 1.25%Elastic Recovery 99 %

CULTIVATION:-

The cultivation of Silk is called Sericulture. Over 30 countries produce silk, and the major ones are China (54%), India (14%) and Japan (11%).Silk moths lay eggs on specially prepared paper. The eggs hatch and the caterpillars (silkworms) are fed fresh mulberry leaves. After about 35 days and 4 molting, the caterpillars are 10,000 times heavier than when hatched, and are ready to begin spinning a Cocoon. A straw frame is placed over the tray of caterpillars, and each caterpillar begins spinning a cocoon by moving its head. Two glands produce liquid silk and force it through openings in the head called Spinnerets.
Liquid silk is coated in Sericin, a water-soluble protective gum, and solidifies on contact with the air. Within 2-3 days, the caterpillar spins about 1 mile of filament and is completely encased in a cocoon. Most caterpillars are then killed by heat and some are allowed to metamorphose into moths to breed the next generation of caterpillars.

ARAMID FIBRE

Aramids are a family of nylons, including Nomex® and Kevlar®. Kevlar® is used to make things like bullet proof vests and puncture resistant bicycle tires. I suppose one could even make bullet proof bicycle tires from Kevlar® if one felt the need.
Blends of Nomex® and Kevlar® are used to make fireproof clothing. Nomex® is what keeps the monster truck and tractor drivers from burning to death should their fire-breathing rigs breathe a little too much fire. Thanks to Nomex®, an important part of American culture can be practiced safely. (Polymers play another part in the monster truck show in the form of elastomers from which those giant tires are made.) Nomex®-Kevlar® blends also protect fire fighters.
Kevlar® is a polyamide, in which all the amide groups are separated by para-phenylene groups, that is, the amide groups attach to the phenyl rings opposite to each other, at carbons 1 and 4. Kevlar is shown in the big picture at the top of the page.

ARAMID FIBER

Aramids are a family of nylons, including Nomex® and Kevlar®. Kevlar® is used to make things like bullet proof vests and puncture resistant bicycle tires. I suppose one could even make bullet proof bicycle tires from Kevlar® if one felt the need.
Blends of Nomex® and Kevlar® are used to make fireproof clothing. Nomex® is what keeps the monster truck and tractor drivers from burning to death should their fire-breathing rigs breathe a little too much fire. Thanks to Nomex®, an important part of American culture can be practiced safely. (Polymers play another part in the monster truck show in the form of elastomers from which those giant tires are made.) Nomex®-Kevlar® blends also protect fire fighters.
Kevlar® is a polyamide, in which all the amide groups are separated by para-phenylene groups, that is, the amide groups attach to the phenyl rings opposite to each other, at carbons 1 and 4. Kevlar is shown in the big picture at the top of the page.

COTTON FIBRE

Cotton :
The word cotton is derived from the Arabic. Cotton fiber is classified as a natural vegetable seed staple fiber. It grows on a plant of a botanical name Gossypium. Cotton is a member of the mallow family. Each fiber is a single plant cell in the outer layer of the cotton seed. These seed hairs are called lint. Fibers which are too short to be spun into yarn are called linters.

Early History :
Cotton fabrics were made by the ancient Egyptian and by the earliest of Chinese civilization. Samples of cotton material have been found in Indian tombs dating back to the year 3000 B.C. There is some evidence that cotton may have been in use in Egypt in 12000 B.C. Specimens of woven cotton fabric have been found in desert tombs discovered in peruse. At the time of roman empire cotton growing and manufacture become established around the shore of the Mediterranean . Cotton was being grown on the Greek mainland from the 8th century A.D. During the 12th and 13th century Europe become the important cotton manufacturer. By the end of the 17th century Britain had become an exporter of cotton fabrics.

Structure of Cotton fiber :
Each hair consists of a single elongated cell, the upper end of which tapers to a point , while the lover end is open where it has been removed form the seed by gin. Fibers contain many convolutions throughout its length.
In cotton fiber the outer most layer is known as cuticle and is a thin film of fats pectin’s and waxes. Beneath this is a primary wall is arranged in a crisscross pattern. Further toward the center is
secondary wall composed of cellulose. It is further subcategorized in 3 zones. The outermost S1 of secondary wall is comparatively thin layer of fibrils with an angle of 20o to 35o . The S2 zone which is situated inside S1 also composed of cellulose with a some what angle of 20o to 30o ,like those in S1 are organized so that there are periodical reversal in the direction of the spiral. In very mature cotton the S3 layer can be detected adjacent to the lining of the lumen and it consists of the mineral salts and the proteins derived from the drying up of the cell sap. Next to the secondary wall there is a hollow central core known as the Lumen.
In a young and growing cell the whole of the space is filled with cell sap. When the cell becomes mature the sap disappears leaving an almost empty structure. As the sap evaporated then protein and salts dried and deposit on the S3 layer of secondary wall, leaving the lumen as hollow core.

Constituents Of Raw Cotton :
The approximate composition of raw cotton is as follows.
Cellulose 85.5%
Oil & Waxes 0.5%
Proteins, Pectose and coloring matter 5.0%
Mineral Matter 1.0%
Moisture 8.0%

Cotton Wax :
Cotton wax on hydrolysis was said to yield the following alcohol, Gossipyl alcohol C30H61OH, Montanyl alcohol C28H57OH and ceryl alcohol C26H53OH. Later investigation prove that gossipyl and montanyl alcohol are not in pure state but they are in fats mixture. These alcohol combine with fatty acids to form waxes. Fasts are esters of fatty acid with glycerol and are hydrolyzed into soap and glycerol quite easily by boiling in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide.

Nitrogen Constituents of raw Cotton :
These are derived from cell sap. They consist of protein and the degradation product of protein such as polypeptides and amino acids. It is believed that nitrogen containing compounds may b associated with the natural coloring matter.
Pectates OR Pectose :
Natural cotton contains derivatives of pectic acid. They appear to exist as calcium and magnesium pectates. Pectic acid is polymer consisting of galacturonic acid unit

Mineral Matters :
The nature and amount of mineral matter found in cotton depends to some extent on the composition of the soil on which it is grown. It is the residue of the salts contained on the sap when the cell is still living. The exact nature and proportions of the salts can vary significantly.

Cellulose : (Chemical Structure of Cellulose)
When all the impurities have been removed the main constituent of the fiber cellulose remains. Cellulose has an empirical formula C6H1OO5. Pure cellulose is a white substance with a specific gravity of 1.5. It has been known for a long time that one of the products of the hydrolysis of cellulose is glucose. This means that cellulose consists of nothing but glucose molecules link together. Starch and glycogen also gives theoretical yields of glucose on hydrolysis but no man has ever succeeded in making a fibrous substance out of them. So there must be some unique structural arrangement of the glucose units within the cellulose. There are two forms of dextrorotary glucose known as the alpha and beta glucose. The difference between them lies in the distribution of the hydroxyl groups above and below the pyrnose ring.

AXI FLOW

Ø This is also known as dual roller cleaner, used for opening and cleaning purposes.
Ø This has two beaters having 6-8 rows of spikes with flattened edges which perform cleaning actions.
The speed range of the beaters varies from 400-600 rpm.
Ø Large cleaning chamber contains two drums moving in the same direction of same diameter of about 610mm.
Ø Material from input comes in process with drumbeaters, which is opened due to high speed of the beaters.
Ø Material through entire length of first beater pass over the grid bars where trash is collected and comes in contact with second beater.
Ø Same action is applied here and cotton is entirely opened and trash is removed in better way.
Advantages:
Ø This machine occupies less space than other machine.
Ø There are no feed rolls due to stock are not held at anytime during passage.
Ø Machine has a capacity of 1800 pounds/hour.

SPINNING

SPINNING

Spinning is the process of conversion of fibres into yarn by twist insertion.

SPINNING SYSTEMS

1) Short staple spinning e.g. cotton spinning

2) long staple spinning e.g.woolen spinning

SPINNING

BLOW ROOM

CARDING

COMBING

DRAW FRAME

ROVING

RING SPINNING

STEP CLEANER

Ø Its example is B5 of Marzoli also known as ultra cleaner or giant cleaner.
Ø It is used for pre cleaning purposes.
Ø Material from the plucker in the form of small tufts enters into a feed hopper and passes to first beater, condenser pushes air out and a stripping roll gives this material to the feed rolls.
Ø A photocell is also used to control the required quantity of cotton in the machine, by turning it on and off.
Ø From here it is passes through series of beaters some times 6 sometimes 4 inclined upward at an angle of 45 degree.
Ø These beaters have spikes, which are oval in shape, if we see these beaters from front then all the spikes will be lined with 12 spikes on one side and 13 on the other side.
Ø That beat the cotton across the grid bars that are placed at 3mm distance continuously and the impurities are removed from the material. Where from trash is cleaned after time and time.
Ø The position of the grid and the speed of the beaters can be varied with the help of motor that drives these beaters.
Advantages;
Because the beaters are driven with same motor and they are same in size there gauges are also same so they have following advantages;
· Less neps are produced
· Less power consumption
· Good beating is accomplished
· They occupy less space
· Less damage to fibers

BALE BREAKER

There are many machines used by spinners in industry which are not used commonly these days. Some of them are explained below;
Bale Breaker
Ø This is first machine used for the opening .The machine is not designed to clean the cotton
Properly but the some instances dust removes.
Ø Bale breaker is a machine designed to take layers of cotton directly taken from the bale and tear them apart leaving the cotton partially opened state.
ØIn this machine the principle of opposing spikes as mentioned above applied as shown in the figure of the machine.

Ø Cotton from the feed lattice fall on the bottom lattice where from it is slowly taken to the inclined lattice picks cotton up.
Ø Gauges of these lattices are set according to the staple length of the cotton fiber.
Ø When material reaches to the top then the spike roll tear the material apart.
Opening is inversely proportional to the distance between spike roll and inclined lattice.
Ø opening is directly proportional to the speed of these two.
Ø Another purpose of this roll is to give a require amount of delivery to the next process.
Ø But there is also a disadvantage of the high speed; it will create the amount of neps, and short fibers.
Ø Roller near the spike roll is striper roll which is also spiked.
Ø It function is to take the material off which remains with the spike roll on the inclined lattice which comes back again for processing.
Ø During the opening some type of impurities also fall down but not more.
Ø A rake above the feed lattice is also used to stop or to drive the machine again if more material is passing than the required amount.
Ø Opened cotton is then taken by another stripping roll and gives to the hopper feeder.
Ø Its production is about 600-800 kg/hour.

TYPES OF SHADIND MOTIONS

TYPES OF SHADING:
There are three types of shading depending on the size of the cloth.
1. Tappet shedding.
2. Dobby shedding.
3. Jacquard shedding.

TAPPET SHEDDING:

 Tappet shedding is the simplest from the shedding.
 This type of method is used from the plain weave, simple twills and simple sateen and stain weave.
 It is used up to 10 frames.
 AA part from restricted patterning possibilities the chief disadvantage of tappet shedding is that we have to change the tappet at the completion of design.

MECHANISM OFF TAPPET SHEDDING:

The motions are drive from the two steel shaft one position above the other the top shaft is know as crank shaft while bottom is know as tapped shaft.
The motion drive is given from the motor to crank shaft and bottom shaft drives from crank.
When the bottom shaft revolves the tapped revolves on it these tappets are adjusted at different angles. At on time one tappet is pressing to the tappet treadle lever and other is lifting at second tapped liver.
Suppose the liver “B” is down hence the held frame will be up due to reversing system. This will from shed.
The shuttle and other mechanism carrying the weft threads will pass through the shed.

SHEDDING TIMING:
The shedding mechanism starts at above 60º at the crank shaft ay is completed about 120º.

SHEDDING MOTION PARTS:
1. Tappet.
2. Treadle liver.
3. Treadle liver blow.
4. Treadle liver bracket (fulcrum).
5. Adjustable card screw clip.
6. Bottom shaft gear.
7. Crank shaft gear.
8. Crank shaft arm.
9. Top reversing rollers.
10. Healed frame.
11. Top line warp sheet.
12. Bottom line warp sheet.


PICKING:
The processes of throughing shuttle shuttle from one side of the shaft to other side know as picking and this passage is known as pick.

PICKING MECHANISM:
This is second basic mechanism picking after come shading the purpose of this motions is to prepare the shuttle to carry pick into the shed from one side shuttle box to another side shuttle box.
Shuttle is the piece of wood about 14” long and weight about 14” once and automatic looms and 10-------12 once in non automatic loom. Shuttle is changed by workers manually the speed of a loom is no of picks per min.


TYPES OF PICKING MOTIONS:
There are two types of picking mechanism in conventional loom.

1. Over picking motion.
2. Under picking motion.

If the picking system is arranged above the loom, it is called over picking i.e. picking stick is the above the loom.

If the picking system is arranged below the loom, it is called under picking i.e. picking stick is below the loom.
UNDER PICKING MOTION:-
Under picking motion is shown in figure.
The picking stick is located below the shuttle box. There are two plates on bottom shaft having picking bowl. The side lever is fitted below the picking plate. The picking nose is fixed in the side lever.
The side lever up-side of the connecting rod of picking stick. And the picker attached to picking stick strikes the shuttle in the shuttle box. In this way shuttle passes through the shed. There is another same mechanism at the other end causes the shuttle to come back & in this way shuttle goes from one side to another.

PICKING MOTION PARTS:-
A- Picking Stick B- Stick Cam
C- Side Lever D- Crank Shaft
E- Buffer Strap F- Picker
G- Side Lever Bracket H- Adjustable Screw
K- Reed Cap L- Picking bowl
M- Picking Plate N- Picking Nose
O- Picking Shaft U- Slay Sword
P- Reed Q- Crank arm
R- Reed Fly Back S- Side From
T- Bumper

MAIN FEATURES OF UNDER PICKING:-
If is less forceful so it is used for slid loom & fine quality.
It is comparatively cheaper.
Less wears & tears of parts.
It is safe and secure.
It is mostly used for any type of loom and and is very simple mechanism.
Jet weft Insertion or Picking system:-

INTRODUCTION:-
This is one of the shuttles less weft insertion system. This is a very high speed weft insertion rate system. Commonly the weft insertion rate of this system from 2000 m/min to 30, 00 m/min. In this system the weft is inserted though the shed (opening b/w warp threads) from one side of the loom to the other either by using the pressurized air pressure or pressurized water pressure. On the basis of these two wefts insertion sources the looms have been designated as:
Air Jet Loom
Water Jet Loom
AIR JET WEFT INSERTION SYSTEM:-
This is one of the jet weft insertion system whose weft insertion rate is up to 3000 m/min.in this system, pressurized air pressure is used to insert the weft through the shed from one side of the loom to the other.

MECHANISM OF AIR JET WEFT INSERTION SYSTEM:-
There is a weft package creel or stand
(1)_on which the weft package
(2)_either cone or cheer is inserted. From the weft package the weft yarn accumulator which is positively driven by the motor.
(4)_From the yarn accumulator the yarn is fed into the tube of his main nozzle
(6)_There is an air chamber
(7)_around this tube of the main nozzle in which pressurized air is supplied from the air supply tank.
(8)_The yarn coming from the tube of the main nozzle is fed into the shed through teensier and scissor from one side of the loom to the other by the air pressure supplied to the main nozzle. There is a suction nozzle on the other end of the reed which sucks the weft yarn and in order to keep the weft yarn straight and under tension.

sequence of the Primary Motions

Q. Give the sequence of the Primary Motions? Write in detail about them?


PRIMARY MOTIONS

1. SHEADING.
A process of raising and lowering of the warp yarn by the harness es to make an opening for the filling yarn to pass through.
* To raised and lowered from of warp yarn is called shed
* Opening or division of sheet of yarn into two parts for passage of weft is called
shedding.

2. PICKING(WEFT INSERTION)
* inserting/filling yarn through shed by a carrier device
* in shuttle loom, the weft carrier is the shuttle.
* where as in the shuttle less loom/the projectile, water jet, air jet carries the weft yarn.

3. BEATING UP MOTION
* beating up is the third operation of the weaving cycle
* this pushes each loose filling yarn into the cloth by the reed, after the shuttle has moved through the shed.
* as soon as weft yarn is inserted. The reed push or beat up to the fell of the cloth
* to fell of the cloth is the edge is nearest to the reads the cloth is being woven. in other word the beating up occurs when the reed push the newly inserted weft against the fell of the cloth.
* beating up give the fabric firm and compact construction.

Q. GIVE THE WORKING OF THE SECONDARY MOTION?

SECONDARY MOTION

1.LET OFF MOTION.

* let off motion is the warp controlling motion that delivers warp it the waving area at the required readapt the suitable construction tension by un-winding git form the warp beam.
* the yarn from the warp beam passes over the back rest and comes forward through the drop wire of the warp stop motion to the healds which are responsible for separating the warp sheet for the purpose of shead formation
* in then passes through the red, which hold the thread at uniform spacing and beating up the weft threadsthat has been left in the triangular warp shed formed by the two warp sheet and the read.

2.TAKE UP MOTION.

* take up is the cloth controlling motion that with draws fabric from the weaving area at a constant rate
* this ensures that the required pick maintained and them wind it into the cloth roller.
* temples hold the cloth firm at the fell to assist in the formation of a uniform fabric, which them passes over the front rest , round the take up roller and into the cloth roller.


Q. WHAT DO YOU UNDERSTAND BY THE STOP MOTION ON THE LOOM?
OR
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPE OF THE STO MOTION?
STOP MOTION

The incorporation of the “primary motion” I .e shedding, picking, beating-up, take-up, let off can complete the process of warp and weft yarn interlacement to produce the fabric. But to achive the maximum output material. “machine and man power”. It is most urgent to install the stop motion on the loom .following stop motion have their important role in achieving the optimum production and good standard quality of fabric.
1. WARP STOP MOTION
Which stop the loom when the drop wire falls as the result of an end break.
2. WEFT STOP MOTION
To stop the loom in the event of break in weft yarn.
3. WARP PROTECTING MOTION
Which stop the loom before beat up in the event of the shuttle or projectile filling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to other
4. WEFT REPLENISHMENT
Which ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn to the loom when ever a supply package exhausted
Q. WXPLAIN WITH THE DIAGRAM OF THE WORKING OF WARP STOP MOTION?

WARP STOP MOTION

The function of the motion is to stop the loom, when ever the warp thread break or missing end appears. If the loom does not stop at such a chine damage like missing end broken end will be found in the fabric produce. Further if an endbrean and its entangles with the neighboring threads and the loom is not stop, many threads will be broken and a damage like “float” (unwoven stop)appear in the fabric. So it is very important that the loom must be stoped at such a chance. There are two type of warp stop motion are
1. mechanical warp stop motion
2. electrical warp stop motion
3.
.MECHENICAL WARP STOP MOTION

In this motion thin metallic part known as dropper plays important role. Every treads coming from the beam is passed through the eye of the dropper .so each thread is supporting a dropper in the case when an end break. The dropper will fall down touch moving bar and the knock aff leaver hit to the starting handle and the loom become stop.
b) and this type of work stop motion special type of dropper bar is used. as the work and break as a missing and appears the dropper supported by this and dropper on the dropper bar and completes the electric circuit .the loom is stopped.
Q.WITH THE HELP OF DIAGRAM EXPLAIN HOW PICK IS INSERTED IN PROJECTILE LOOM OR SULZER LOOM?

PROJECTILE.

1. projectile 5 moves into the picking position
2. projectile feeder3 opener after 5 has griped the filling ends presented to it.
3. the projectile has drown the yarn through shed while filling pensioner lever 2 and adjustable filling break 1 act to minimize the strain placed on the yarn during picking.
4. the projectile is braked by projectile break in the receiving unit and pushed back. While the filling pensioner lever and the filling break hold the filling yarn lightly stretched. At the same time, the projectile feeder moves closed to the selvage.
5. the projectile feeder3 take over the filing yarn while filling end dropper hold it at both side of th fabric.
6. the yarn is released by the projectile on the receving side. Filling cutter cut the filling yarn. A conveyor takes expelled projectile 5 and carries out side the shed back to the picking position.








1.weft break.
2.weft pensioner level
3.projectile feeder
4.weft cutter.
5.projectile
6.reed.
7.torsion road
8.projectile brake
9.convear chain
10.projectile lifter
11.projectile opener

Q. GIVE THE BRIEF INTRODUCTIONOF EACH TYPE OF SHUTTLE LOOM?
DISCUSS WHY SHUTTLE LESS WEAVING LOOM WHERE NEEDED?


There are two type of loom
1.SHUTTLE LOOM .
2.SHUTTLE LESS LOOM.


1.SHUTLE LESS LOOM
The shuttle less loom are modified form of the shuttle loom. In this weaving system the weft yarn feeding system by conventionally used shuttle has been replaced by the projectile, by water jet. By air jet, by rapier
Type of shuttle less loom
Projectile loom
Water jet loom
Air jet loom
Rapier loom
* PROJECTILE LOOM
In this system used a small projectile to carry the filling yarn through shed
* RAPIER LOOM
In this system a special part known as “rapier head” which are two on one loom are used. One apier had which feed the weft yarn from for picking side is called “feed rapier head” while the other head in the middle of the loom is called receiving rapier head.
* AIR JET LOOM
In this system pressurized air is used to insert the weft yarn from one side of the loom to the other side of loom.
* WATER JET LOOM
In this system of weft insertion pressurized of water is used to insert the weft yarn from one side of the loom to the other side of loom.

MODERN DEVELOPMENT IN LOOM TECHNOLOGY
Because of international market competition, it was felt seriously by the weaving technologist to cmprove felt to satisfy customer.
1 wider width fabric(minimum 36 inch and above).
2 fine verities.
3 defect free cloth for longer length .
4 competition price/meter.
5 Consistency in quality.
6 adoptability in trend change .
7 quick delinery.
8 value addition .
9 best services.

SHADING

TYPES OF SHADING:
There are three types of shading depending on the size of the cloth.
1. Tappet shedding.
2. Dobby shedding.
3. Jacquard shedding.

TAPPET SHEDDING:

 Tappet shedding is the simplest from the shedding.
 This type of method is used from the plain weave, simple twills and simple sateen and stain weave.
 It is used up to 10 frames.
 AA part from restricted patterning possibilities the chief disadvantage of tappet shedding is that we have to change the tappet at the completion of design.

MECHANISM OFF TAPPET SHEDDING:

The motions are drive from the two steel shaft one position above the other the top shaft is know as crank shaft while bottom is know as tapped shaft.
The motion drive is given from the motor to crank shaft and bottom shaft drives from crank.
When the bottom shaft revolves the tapped revolves on it these tappets are adjusted at different angles. At on time one tappet is pressing to the tappet treadle lever and other is lifting at second tapped liver.
Suppose the liver “B” is down hence the held frame will be up due to reversing system. This will from shed.
The shuttle and other mechanism carrying the weft threads will pass through the shed.

SHEDDING TIMING:
The shedding mechanism starts at above 60º at the crank shaft ay is completed about 120º.














SHEDDING MOTION PARTS:
1. Tappet.
2. Treadle liver.
3. Treadle liver blow.
4. Treadle liver bracket (fulcrum).
5. Adjustable card screw clip.
6. Bottom shaft gear.
7. Crank shaft gear.
8. Crank shaft arm.
9. Top reversing rollers.
10. Healed frame.
11. Top line warp sheet.
12. Bottom line warp sheet.


PICKING:
The processes of throughing shuttle shuttle from one side of the shaft to other side know as picking and this passage is known as pick.

PICKING MECHANISM:
This is second basic mechanism picking after come shading the purpose of this motions is to prepare the shuttle to carry pick into the shed from one side shuttle box to another side shuttle box.
Shuttle is the piece of wood about 14” long and weight about 14” once and automatic looms and 10-------12 once in non automatic loom. Shuttle is changed by workers manually the speed of a loom is no of picks per min.


TYPES OF PICKING MOTIONS:
There are two types of picking mechanism in conventional loom.

1. Over picking motion.
2. Under picking motion.

If the picking system is arranged above the loom, it is called over picking i.e. picking stick is the above the loom.

If the picking system is arranged below the loom, it is called under picking i.e. picking stick is below the loom.








UNDER PICKING MOTION:-
Under picking motion is shown in figure.
The picking stick is located below the shuttle box. There are two plates on bottom shaft having picking bowl. The side lever is fitted below the picking plate. The picking nose is fixed in the side lever.
The side lever up-side of the connecting rod of picking stick. And the picker attached to picking stick strikes the shuttle in the shuttle box. In this way shuttle passes through the shed. There is another same mechanism at the other end causes the shuttle to come back & in this way shuttle goes from one side to another.

PICKING MOTION PARTS:-
A- Picking Stick B- Stick Cam
C- Side Lever D- Crank Shaft
E- Buffer Strap F- Picker
G- Side Lever Bracket H- Adjustable Screw
K- Reed Cap L- Picking bowl
M- Picking Plate N- Picking Nose
O- Picking Shaft U- Slay Sword
P- Reed Q- Crank arm
R- Reed Fly Back S- Side From
T- Bumper

MAIN FEATURES OF UNDER PICKING:-
If is less forceful so it is used for slid loom & fine quality.
It is comparatively cheaper.
Less wears & tears of parts.
It is safe and secure.
It is mostly used for any type of loom and and is very simple mechanism.





Jet weft Insertion or Picking system:-

INTRODUCTION:-
This is one of the shuttles less weft insertion system. This is a very high speed weft insertion rate system. Commonly the weft insertion rate of this system from 2000 m/min to 30, 00 m/min. In this system the weft is inserted though the shed (opening b/w warp threads) from one side of the loom to the other either by using the pressurized air pressure or pressurized water pressure. On the basis of these two wefts insertion sources the looms have been designated as:
Air Jet Loom
Water Jet Loom



AIR JET WEFT INSERTION SYSTEM:-
This is one of the jet weft insertion system whose weft insertion rate is up to 3000 m/min.in this system, pressurized air pressure is used to insert the weft through the shed from one side of the loom to the other.

MECHANISM OF AIR JET WEFT INSERTION SYSTEM:-
There is a weft package creel or stand
(1)_on which the weft package
(2)_either cone or cheer is inserted. From the weft package the weft yarn accumulator which is positively driven by the motor.
(4)_From the yarn accumulator the yarn is fed into the tube of his main nozzle
(6)_There is an air chamber
(7)_around this tube of the main nozzle in which pressurized air is supplied from the air supply tank.
(8)_The yarn coming from the tube of the main nozzle is fed into the shed through teensier and scissor from one side of the loom to the other by the air pressure supplied to the main nozzle. There is a suction nozzle on the other end of the reed which sucks the weft yarn and in order to keep the weft yarn straight and under tension.




























With the help of diagram explain how pick is inserted in projectile loom or slugger loom?

PROJECTILE WEAVING:
1- Projectile 5 moves onto the picking position.
2- Projectile feeder 3 opens after projectile 5 has gripped the filling end presented to it.
3- The projectile has drown the yarn through the shed while filling tensioned lever 2 and adjustable filling brake 1 act to minimize the strain placed on the yarn during picking.
4- The projectile is broken by projectile brake 8 in the receiving unit and pushed back, while the filling tension lever and the filling brake hold the filling yarn lightly stretched. At the same time, the projectile feeder move close to the selvage.
5- Projectile feeder 3 takes over the filling yarn while filling end gripper hold it at both side of the fabric.
6- The yarn is released by the projectile on the receiving side. Filling cutter 4 cuts the filling yarn. A conveyer takes expelled projectile 5 and carries it outside the shed back to the picking position.






















Write detail note on beating up mechanism.

BEATINNG UP:-
Beating up is a process in which weft threads are pushed towards the fell of the cloth with the help of slay on which the reed is mounted. Reed is used to achieve the beating up.

MECHANISM OF BEATING UP:-
In the beating up system a longer crank (or connecting arm) is attached to the crank shaft and other end is connected to slay. The slay is mounted on rocking shaft for easy movement of slay.
When the crank shaft rotates, the connecting arm moves forward and backward. The crank arm is connected to slay which also forward and backward about the rocking shaft. When slay move forward it moves a reed mounted on the top of race board thus reed pushes or beats the inserted pick to the fell of the cloth.

RAPIER LOOM:-
Introduction:-
This is one of the types of shuttle less loom.
It is a versatile loom every type of fabric is commonly made on these loom.
Different counts and fibers can be used to produce the woven fabric.
In this type of weaving a flexible or solid element called rapier is used to insert the filling yarn across the shed.
Commonly two rapier heads are used on one loom. Feeder rapier head and receiver rapier head.
Feeder rapier head which is used to feed the weft yarn from left hand side of the loom to the middle of the reed.
Receiver rapier head which is moved being empty from right hand side of the loom to the middle of the reed to receive the weft yarn from the feeder rapier.
There are commonly three system of rapier drive as given below
1 Single rigid rapier weft insertion or picking system.
2 Double rigid rapier weft insertion or picking system.
3 Double flexible rapier weft insertion.












Single Rigid Rapier Weft Insertion:-
In this system there is only one rapier head which acts as a feeder rapier and it is traversed from one side of the loom to the other side and then the empty rapier is withdrawn leaving the new filling yarn in place.
Speed or weft insertion rate of this loom is low i.e.800 m/min.
Less number of looms can be operated by weaver so the weaver productivity is low.
It occupies more space.
Its noise level is high.
Its mechanism is poor.
The cost /meter of air conditioning are high.

Double Rigid Rapier Weft Insertion:-
In this system two rapier heads are traversed from both side of the loom to insert the weft. it has a certain advantages
1 Because of rapier drive from both sides to the center of the reed, the weft insertion rate of this system is high which is up to 1200m/min.
2 The numbers of loom operated by one weaver are more, so productivity of operator is high.
3 This loom occupies less space.
4 More number of looms can be installed in the size of weaver room.
5 Less cast/meter of air conditioning.
6 Low noise level.

Double Flexible Rapier Weft Insertion:-
This system is superior to other two system of rapier drive in the following respects:
1 Since the drive to the rapier is made by flexible carbon fiber tapes instead of rigid metallic bar hence the speed of this loom is up to 1400m/min.
2 More number of looms can easily be operated by one weaver; hence the productivity of weaver is high.
3 The loom occupies less space.
4 More number of looms can be installed in the same size of weaver room.
5 The noise level of loom is low.
6 Air conditioning cost/meter is high.
7 Quality of the fabric produced is better b/c of the use of carbon fiber types.

MECHENISM OF RAPIER LOOM:-
1 Main drive shaft
2 Cam profile
3 Segment or Quadrant gear
4 Driven pinion
5 Driven sprocket
6 Solid bar
7 Rapier
8 Tension & scissor
9 Reed

There is a cam profile (2) which is transmitted motion from main drive shaft (1) the quadrant or segment gear (3) is oscillated as shown in the figure by arouse by this cam profile. There is a driven pinion (4) which is transmitted motion in clock wise and anti clock wise direction by this quadrant gear. A gear (5) fixed on the same shaft of driven pinion (4) transmit the to and fro motion to solid or rigid bar (6) as shown by arrows in the figure. At the extreme end of the rigid bar a rapier head (7) is fixed. It grips the weft yarn from weft feeder and is passed through the shed from one side of the loom to the other end placing the weft yarn or pick in shed.
As in this system there is only one rapier head which in double rigid rapier same system exist in other side.

WEFT STOPS MOTION:-
This type of stop motion used in shuttle and shuttle less looms. The function of this stop motion is to stop the loom whenever the weft yarn breaks or weft package (porn or cone) exhaust. If this motion is not installed or not functioning properly certain fabric faults like miss pick, crack, float double picks and cut picks etc take place. There is a detector or feeler, may it be mechanical (weft fork) or optical feeler. This plays an important role to operate this motion and stop the loom in time. The function of this detector of feeler is to detect the presence or absence of the weft yarn.
There are various weft stop motion being used on different model of the loom commonly used are.


1 Mechanical weft stop motion
2 Electronic or optical weft stops motion.

There are two weft stop motion in mechanical weft stop motion.
1 Side weft stop fork motion
2 Center weft stop fork motion.
The feelers used are
1 Mechanical feeler i.e. fork
2 Electronic feeler i.e. photo cell

(a) Side Weft Stop Fork Motion:-
In this motion the fork is placed on handle side of the loom. It feels the presence of the weft yarn or absent in the shed. If the weft presence in the shed. The fork will be lifted of its fulcrum so that the fork is cleared of the knock off mechanism and the loom will continuous running. If the weft absent (break or finished) then fork will move with adjacent parts and result loom will be stopped.
(b) Center Weft Fork Stop Motion:-
In center weft fork stop motion is put at the center of the loom. It feels the presence of the weft yarn in the shed on each and every pick. All these circumstances make it desirable to able to stop the loom when the picks break or finished in the shed. The fork must be raised up on each pick if there is no weft yarn supporting the fork the slay come forward to beat up the rod will strike the starting handle and knock off the loom. If the presences of the weft yarn the fork is supported by the weft there is no knock off starting handle and the loom will continuous run.


POSITION OF LET OFF MOTION:
Position off let off motion is controlled by gearing the warp is delivered at regular and even tension throughout the while warp beam these is no defect off then placed on the fabric these motion is good for medium is heavy cloth.
The basic objective off the position left off motion is to prevent the long term tension variation as the beam diameter decreases from full beam to empty beam the advantage of this mechanism is that once the mechanism is set correctly to produce the desired tension further adjustment are not necessary. The weaver does not have to adjust the weight during weaving down of the warp. These are no lost weights rope or chains.

BASIC REQUIREMENTS:
(1) The basic requirements of positive let off are it should mention a uniform warp the mean the warp tension during every loom cycle.

(2) It should meet these two requirements without any further adjustment after the initial setting up the beginning of the warp.

LET OFF MOTION:
Function of the let off mechanism is to allow the warp to move forward by unwinding it from the weavers beam maintaining a predetermined warp tension. The warp tension is essential to form a clear warp shad for essay passage of the shuttle and in helping the fell of the cloth to remain in the same position during the beat up:
The tension on warp should be minimum for the particular quality of fabric as tension above the optimum value tends to increase the warp breakage rate and affect the dimensional and physical properties of the fabric for heavy fabric more tension is required:

TYPE OF LET OFF MECHANISM:
(1) Negative let off motion.
(2) Positive let off motion.

1. NEGATIVE LET OFF MOTION:
In negative let off motion in which warp tension is controlled by weight this is the most common type used on non out mature through these mechanism is very simple and less costly cloth faults like crake and their place can not be avoided. It is also label to cause short medium and long term warp tension variation through the weaving process.
In figure the warp beam is mounted as the back of the loom is tensional by the death weights place on a lever A and is couple to the weights chain or rape by the hook C.

knitting

The method of converting yarn into fabric by intermeshing loops, which are formed with the help of needles, is known as knitting. There are two basic forms of knitting technology: Weft Knitting and Warp Knitting.
Weft knitting is done with hands, and with machines. Warp knitting is done by machines only. In weft knitting, only a single yarn Is required and the fabric consists of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. On the other hand, warp knitting requires one yarn for every stitch in the row, that is the course, and these yarns make vertical parallel Wales. Warp knitting is resistant to runs, and is commonly used as a lingerie fabric. Weft knitted fabrics can be produced in either tubular or flat form. Weft knitted Fabric is usually highly elastic and highly droppable, which makes it suitable for a wide range of apparel applications. The main advantage of warp knitted fabric is that it is not easy to unravel like weft knitted fabric. However, this fabric is not as elastic as weft knitted fabric. Let us now study in detail the two basic types of knitting:

TEXTILE

Fashion and textile designs:-
Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others. Marisol Deluna, Nicole Miller, Lilly Pulitzer, the late Gianni Versace and Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs.

SOURCES AND TYPES:-
Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources: animal, plant, mineral, and synthetic. In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum.
Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in deniers. Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier.

TEXTILE

DEFINITION:-
A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands known as yarn.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).
The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding. Cloth refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.

HISTRY:-
The production of textiles is an important craft, whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. However, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods.
Incans have been crafting quipus (or khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounting, although new evidence conducted by Harvard professor, Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections follow general textile preservation principles and practice.

Uses
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, cleaning devices, such as handkerchiefs; transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes; strengthening in composite materials such as fibre glass and industrial geotextiles, and smaller cloths are used in washing by "soaping up" the cloth and washing with it rather than using just soap.
Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems" using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.[2][3]